Monday, October 5, 2009

Lago Atitlan



This weekend I had a chance to experience a very cultural part of Guatemala, and to travel to a brand new place. The area around Lago Atitlan is full of history—it is heavily populated with indigenous peoples, and because of this was one of the areas targeted by the government forces during the civil war. 800 people were killed and over 700 “disappeared” here in the late '80s and early '90s. For more on the Guatemalan Civil War (1960 to 1996) see here or here.



I sought two things on this trip—a little bit of relaxation and quiet, and also to enjoy the festival of St Francis of Assisi (the patron saint of the pueblo Panajachel which is located on the lake). Like I’ve mentioned before, Guatemalans know how to party. Both turned out perfectly.




Lago Atitlan is a large lake surrounded by volcanoes on all sides, and is truly an amazing and beautiful place. Unfortunately the roads surrounding it are not very safe to drive because of thieves who have set up camp in the mountains, so its necessary to take a small boat to get across the lake to the town of Santiago, best known for its indigenous culture and chill vibe. We stayed at a wonderful hotel called Posada Santiago. The hotel is owned by an American ex-pat who has set out for a quieter life in Guatemala. Along with beautiful views, great food, and a cool town to explore, we also spent a good bit of time “hammocking” as we call it.


"hammocking"

On Sunday we set out back across the lake for the “feria” in Pana. By the time we got there at 2 pm there were already multiple Guatemalans passed out in the street, indigenous crafts being sold, and the enterprising setting up shop outside of the bathrooms, charging 2 quetzales to use them. The fair had a great atmosphere, lots of games, prizes, rides, and dancing. The main festivities were happening next to the St. Francis church. The most interesting thing was a native dance (complete with masks and costumes) and a parade with children dressed as conquistadors, statues of St. Francis, Jesus, and Mary in tow. (click to make the pictures larger)









On the way home looking out the window again it hit me once again how great the disparities between the rich and the poor here. Guatemala is a country where many people live very comfortable, if not “American standard” lives, while others suffer tremendous poverty. Nowhere is that more obvious than driving through village after village, some with big gated communities and some with little shacks set up along the side of the road. No wonder there is so much crime.

All in all, a wonderful weekend and now back to life in Antigua. Its hard work being a student, volunteer, and traveler all at the same time- but somehow, I think I'll survive :-)

6 comments:

  1. Would you mind if we followed your travels? I'm a Spanish teacher from Hershey, PA, and my classes are reading a novel about a girl from Panajachel. We're looking for background information about the area including Lago Atitlan and the volcanoes as well. Thanks! You have terrific pictures & commentary! Mtra. Nesbitt

    ReplyDelete
  2. I'm really glad you enjoy reading my blog. I'm actually originally from Mechanicsburg, PA-- right near you. I'll try to dig up some more info for you guys about Lago Atitlan, its really a fascinating place. Enjoy reading!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Although I have never been to Lago Atitlan, I think that Lago Atitlan has some great cultures and is an amazing place to see.

    From,
    Miguel D.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi, I'm a student from Mtra. Nesbitt's class and I was wondering if at Lago de Atitilan when you didn't use the Highway and used boat if that you used like a canoe or a Launcha. Also, do you think that the Highwaymen will catch on that people are going by boat to avoid them?
    ~Memo 7Rojo

    ReplyDelete
  5. Miguel-- Lago Atitlan is an amazing place. The author Aldous Huxley even called it "the most beautiful lake in the world" If you ever get a chance to visit Guatemala I highly recommend it.

    Kyle-- We used a Launcha-type boat, it had a motor. It would have taken hours to get across the lake in a canoe-- its huge! The fishermen do use small wooden canoes though. The highwaymen might catch on to the boat thing but I don't think they can really do anything about it out on the waters or at the docks, there are a lot of people around.

    Noel

    ReplyDelete